Order of the Garters

It's hard to relive the 1850s in slacks, let alone skinny jeans. Researching, and occasionally recreating, historic fashion has long been one of my favorite hobbies. As you might guess, lately I've been focusing on the middle of the 19th century.

Having spent the last year or so reading issues of Godey's Lady's Book and poring over The Workwoman's Guide, I'm finally ready to start sewing, knitting, crocheting, etc. It seemed a good idea to begin from the inside out, since 19th-century undergarments have a great deal to do with the way the rest of the clothing fits.

My first official project (remind me to show you some of my earlier slapdash 19th-century efforts when I'm in a self-effacing mood) was stocking and garters. Knitting is more space economical than sewing and therefore more suited to a studio apartment.

I tackled the garters first, having already knitted a pair for a friend from the pattern accompanying this illustration, as seen in Godey's June 1862 issue:


Since this particular pair was billed as "NEW STYLE OF GARTER" and I am interested in the previous decade, I figured it might be as well to find an earlier reference. Here's what the Workwoman's Guide, c. 1840, had to say on the subject:

GARTERS.
PLATE 21. FIG. 23.

These are chiefly worn by females, and are merely narrow strips of knitting, of three quarters of a yard long, and a nail, more or less, wide. They are made of worsted, cotton, or soft wool ; the latter is most elastic and pleasant. For garters, set on from twelve to twenty, or even thirty stitches, according to the fineness of the material. Knit backwards and forwards till of the proper length, when fasten off. Some persons prefer a loop at the end ; for which purpose, when near the end, divide the stitches equally upon two pins, and knit each pin about ten ribs, after which connect them together by binding them in fastening off. Garters arc sometimes knit by putting the material, which is fine, twice round the pin at every stitch, letting the pin be very thick. Garters are sometimes ribbed, at others knit, in a succession of squares of different patterns.

I used some leftover fingering wool as it seemed to achieve the correct gauge. By combining generalities from the earlier source with some of the later pattern, this is what I came up with:

The only problem with foot/leg wear -- you have to make two! More soon.